Attitude visits Adelaide, the must-see gem of South Australia
Adelaide may not have the global recognition of Sydney or Melbourne, but it's a city that captivates with its charm, surprises with its diversity, and delights with its offerings, says Attitude's Dale Fox
By Dale Fox
Stepping off the plane in Adelaide, we’re immediately struck by the warm South Australia sun and the promise of adventure. This often-overlooked city, we soon discover, is a delightful blend of old and new, where Victorian architecture meets modern cuisine and vibrant culture.
Our home for the next few days is the trendy Hotel Indigo Adelaide Markets. As we check in, we’re greeted by a young Mancunian receptionist on a working holiday. Her friendly Northern accent is a surprising comfort so far from home, yet sets the tone for our stay. Our suite is a haven of elegance, with a separate lounge area perfect for pre-dinner relaxation.
The real star of the hotel, however, is its compact rooftop pool. Each afternoon, my travel companions and I find ourselves the sole occupants of this urban oasis, basking in the warm Australian sun while protected from its full intensity by a clever covered design.
Food, culture, sea and sand
Our first taste of Adelaide’s food scene comes from the nearby Adelaide Central Markets. This labyrinth of tantalising aromas and vibrant colours offers an endless choice of street food, mainly Asian. We hop from stall to stall, sampling everything from crispy dumplings to fragrant curries.
The next morning, our cultural exploration begins with a fascinating walking tour by Flamboyance Tours. Our knowledgeable and perky guide leads us through a maze of laneways adorned with vibrant murals, many by the internationally renowned artist Jimmy C. The tour culminates in the charming Victorian-era Adelaide Arcade, where we’re regaled with deliciously salacious tales of ghostly sightings and ill-fated lovers.
We later venture to Henley Beach, a picturesque seaside suburb that feels worlds away from the bustling city centre. At HNLY, a chic beachfront restaurant, we indulge in a leisurely lunch of fresh oysters and crisp local wines. The veranda offers breathtaking views of the sapphire waters, and the gentle sea breeze is a welcome respite from the summer heat.
Experiencing South Australia’s famous wine regions
No visit to South Australia would be complete without a trip to its famous wine regions. We spend a glorious day in McLaren Vale, starting at the utterly charming Down The Rabbit Hole Wines. Its influencer owners, Domenic and Elise, welcome us into their Instagram-perfect world of rolling vineyards and curated rustic-chic bliss.
Our wine tour concludes at the surreal d’Arenberg Cube, an architectural marvel that houses an array of Salvador Dali’s trippy surrealist works. Even the toilets are photo-worthy, adding to the eccentric charm of the place. We tour the Cube, enjoy lunch at Singapore Circus, and participate in the Blending Bench experience, creating our own wine blend under the instruction of the fabulous British expat Kimmy.
Culinary delights
Back in Adelaide, our culinary adventures continue. At Paper Tiger, a Southeast Asian restaurant, we feast on sharing platters of bold, authentic flavours. The atmosphere is buzzing, and the staff is as delightful as the food.
Another evening finds us at Olive, a Mediterranean fusion restaurant designed for sharing. We indulge in dishes like Kingfish crudo and olive oil ice cream, all paired with exquisite Australian wines. It’s an experience that leaves us in awe of Adelaide’s culinary prowess.
Adelaide Fringe Festival
But the true highlight of our Adelaide sojourn is undoubtedly the Adelaide Fringe Festival, hosted by its utterly camp CEO Heather Croall. As dusk paints the sky in hues of purple and gold, we make our way to the festival grounds at Gluttony and The Garden of Unearthly Delights. The atmosphere is electric, a palpable sense of excitement in the air. Despite the crowds, there’s no pushing or shoving – just a sea of smiling faces, all there to celebrate creativity and performance.
We weave our way through the throng, stopping to admire street performers and sample from food trucks. The diversity of the acts on offer is staggering – from acrobats to comedians, musicians to magicians. The standout performance of the night is queer artist Frankie McNair‘s An Intimate Evening with Tabitha Booth. McNair’s character, an even more unhinged version of Liza Minnelli, has us laughing until tears stream down our faces.
As we leave the show, still wiping away tears, we’re treated to an unexpected natural spectacle. Thousands of migrating bats fill the twilight sky, their silhouettes creating a mesmerising dance against the fading light. It’s a moment of pure magic, the kind of serendipitous occurrence that makes travel so rewarding.
Adelaide nightlife
Our nights in Adelaide aren’t just about the Fringe. We find time to belt out some karaoke numbers at a Chinese KTV close to our hotel, and visit Mary’s Poppin, the city’s main queer venue and home of drag. Despite the younger crowd, we immediately make friends with some locals and enjoy a dance or two.
Contrary to popular belief, we find Adelaide surprisingly affordable. And despite Australia’s reputation for dangerous wildlife, we don’t encounter any monstrous spiders or koalas with laser beams attached to their heads.
Our days (and nights) in Adelaide fly by in a blur of laughter, discovery, and indulgence. From the comfort of our hotel to the vibrancy of the markets, from the culinary delights to the cultural feast of the Fringe Festival, every moment is a joy. As we reluctantly pack our bags, we find ourselves already planning a return trip.
Is Adelaide worth visiting?
Adelaide may not have the global recognition of Sydney or Melbourne, but it’s a city that captivates with its charm, surprises with its diversity, and delights with its offerings. It’s a place where culture, cuisine, and comfort collide in the most magnificent way. If you’re looking for a destination that offers a perfect blend of relaxation and excitement, of familiar comforts and exotic discoveries, then Adelaide should be at the top of your list. This gem of South Australia has stolen our hearts – and we have a feeling it will steal yours too.