Attitude visits Alice Springs, the queer heartbeat of Australia’s Red Centre
This unassuming town in the Australian outback is home not only to an iconic Priscilla location, but also a sizeable LGBTQ+ population, as Attitude's Dale Fox discovers
By Dale Fox
In the heart of Australia‘s vast outback, where the red earth stretches endlessly under an azure sky, lies an unexpected oasis of queer culture and celebration. Alice Springs, often overlooked by travellers rushing to Uluru, reveals itself as the vibrant, rainbow-hued heart of the Red Centre.
Indeed, this remote town in Australia’s Northern Territory boasts one of the highest proportions of lesbian couples in Australia, with a 2016 census showing that female same-sex couples represent about one in 100 of all co-habiting couples.
Its queer-friendly reputation dates back to the early 1980s, when a women’s peace camp at nearby Pine Gap drew hundreds of feminist activists, many of whom stayed, drawn by the beauty of the landscape and opportunities to work with Indigenous communities.
Today, as we touch down to join the town’s annual LGBTQ+ fabALICE festival, we discover a town that not only embraces its LGBTQ+ community but throws a party that could easily go toe-to-toe with any global big city Pride.
Here, amid the ancient landscapes and sacred sites, drag queens strut their stuff, queer voices echo across the desert, and the spirit of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert lives on.
The moment our aeroplane touches down in Alice Springs, we’re hit by a wave of dry heat and endless sky. This isn’t just another Aussie town – it’s the pulsing heart of the Red Centre, where the Outback comes alive.
Our adventure kicks off in style with a scenic flight over the town courtesy of Alice Springs Helicopters. Our female pilot, an aspiring astronaut, enthusiastically points out landmarks below as we soar over the MacDonnell Ranges. The landscape is a patchwork of ochre and green, with the Todd River snaking through like a silver ribbon.
Back on terra firma, we check into the Crowne Plaza Alice Springs Lasseters, the iconic hotel featured in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, where the fabulous trio give their iconic performance to CeCe Peniston’s ‘Finally.’ But for us, it’s base camp for our Alice Springs expedition. The casino floor tempts us with its lights and sounds, but the real jackpot is the huge outdoor pool – a godsend in the scorching Outback heat.
The fabALICE festival is what we’re really here for, though. As night falls, the town transforms. Glitter and sequins catch the streetlights as festival-goers make their way to the Alice Springs Convention Centre, right next to the Lasseters. We catch 2024 Eurovision entrant Electric Fields’ set – their blend of electronic and Indigenous sounds sending shivers down our spines despite the warm night air.
Aussie stage and cabaret legend Rhonda Burchmore brings old-school glamour to the stage. Resplendent in a sequinned catsuit and towering heels, she describes herself as “6 feet but worth the climb” – and we couldn’t agree more. Her performance, peppered with showtunes, witty banter, and cute backing dancers, is the epitome of classic camp.
The festival also boasts some serious Drag Race royalty. Hannah Conda and Kween Kong from Down Under strut their stuff, bringing a taste of reality TV realness to the Outback. Not to be outdone, my fierce travelling companions – Drag Race UK stars Sister Sister and Ginny Lemon, and Drag Race‘s Joey Jay and Utica Queen – work the stage alongside local queer performers, adding their global flavour to this desert spectacular.
But fabALICE isn’t just about the big names. Local drag royalty like Miss Ellaneous and Ferocia Couture show us that the NT drag scene is alive and kicking. Their performances are raw, real, and absolutely riveting.
The next morning, we’re up early to explore the Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park. The silence of the desert is broken only by our footsteps as we hike through the rugged terrain. We cool off in crystal-clear watering holes, the red cliffs reflected perfectly on their still surfaces.
As our time in Alice Springs draws to a close, we realise we’ve barely scratched the surface. This town, often overlooked by tourists using it as a stopver to Uluru, has a magic all its own. It’s a place where ancient landscapes meet cutting-edge art, where traditional culture and modern queer expression coexist and celebrate each other.
Alice Springs isn’t just a dot on the map in the middle of nowhere. It’s the vibrant, beating heart of Australia’s Red Centre. And after experiencing fabALICE, we can confidently say – this heart knows how to party.