Attitude city guide: Los Angeles

Los Angeles. The city where the young and beautiful come to seek fame and fortune, or, in most cases, cruelly find their lifelong dreams heartbreakingly shattered. To some, it’s a far away fantasy land where glamour, riches and opportunity await and where lives can potentially be transformed from humdrum to out of this world in one magical moment.

To most of us, the City of Angels is all about Hollywood, a giant sprawling film set town, where you expect to see the likes of Brad Pitt and Chris Evans strolling down the street looking fit as fuck. And though it might be perceived as a place financially and geographically out of reach, it’s a city we feel we know like the back of our hands, thanks to the countless movies it has been the backdrop to over the years. L.A. may be over 5,400 miles from London, but it’s a home away from home.

LGBT L.A.

While San Fran might be better known as the west coast mecca for gay men, L.A. boasts its fair share of gay attractions. On top of the increasingly out (and many closeted) queens in front and behind the camera, gay guys in L.A. are like the rats in London: You’re never more than five foot away from one, from waiters, bakers, candlestick-makers, tour guides, execs or that homeless guy with the Hollywood cheek bones and Jeremy Kyle gnashers trying to bum a dollar off you.

West Hollywood is famously known as L.A.’s answer to Soho, home to an array of gay bars and gay friendly establishments. But L.A.’s rich gay history extends across the city, boasting many landmarks of interest that mark the development of gay culture in the city over the years.

Hollywood Boulevard

Take for example, the home of gay activist Harry Hay on Cove Avenue, which is considered the birthplace of the gay rights movement after he founded the first gay organisation, the Mattachine Society, in the city. Then there’s the house of Rev Troy Perry in Huntington Park, where Christopher Street West, the organization that produced the first Pride parade, was founded, and where it’s believed the first public same-sex marriage took place in 1968. Be sure to also visit the Black Cat Tavern, one of the oldest gay bars in the city, which was the location of a pre-Stonewall police raid that led to a full-scale riot. See? More historic gay hotspots than you can shake a disco stick at!

WHERE TO STAY

If you’re in the city to party then the W is the perfect place. Situated on Hollywood and Vine (just a stone’s throw from the Walk of Fame), the hotel is a lavish, ultra swish complex, with refreshingly friendly and very handsome bellboys, and luxurious and spacious rooms fit for a queen. Every night is a party at the W, with DJs spinning funky tunes in the Station Hollywood Bar, which actually serves as the hotel’s chic café by day. For those seeking something a little less frenetic, there are sultry jazz nights in the Living Room bar on Sunday evenings; the perfect setting to savour a tasty cocktail or two.

If you fancy some time away from the soothing chill of your air conditioned suite, head to the sumptuous rooftop pool to work on that tan. It’s so decadent, this is probably the closest many of us will get to living like a character from a Jackie Collins novel, minus the Fifty Shades-type sex.

The Line Hotel, Koreatown

If your tastes are a little more ‘edgy’, the Line Hotel in Koreatown is the one for you. Designed with a deliberately dishevelled, distressed look, this place screams rock ‘n’ roll. In fact, Kasabian were booked in for their show in the city during our stay.

The rooms are small and kookily furnished but a room-wide window on one wall makes it feel super spacious. Those lucky enough to get booked into the north side of the hotel have the added bonus of looking out onto the Hollywood hills, where you can see the famous Hollywood sign catch the sunlight: Waking up to that view every morning is quite something.

The super plush Ritz-Carlton is Downtown and has an amazing heated rooftop pool with panoramic views, just a quick walk from the Grammy Museum and the Staples Center.If you prefer your hotel to be a little more ostentatious, the Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey near Venice Beach is beautifully over the top and has a fantastic club lounge that comes complete with patisserie chef.

WHAT TO DO

As I’m sure you’re aware, L.A. is not a city for walking. Roads are extremely long and it can take up to two hours to walk from one end of the street to the other. There is a good public transport system, but taxis are probably the best way to go. To get your bearings and save on costs, get yourself a two day Starline ticket. Okay, so bus tours might not be the most glamorous, but it’s by far the best way to see where everything is, and you’ll learn a little something along the way, see the locations featured in many of your favourite movies, and, if you snag a seat on the open top deck you can top up your tan as you travel.

Venice Boardwalk is the L.A. equivalent of Camden, home to a mix of diverse individuals. You know the type: White guys with dreadlocks, heavily tattooed jugglers and tie-dye wearing buskers. Fear not, it’s not all hippy-trippy types. On the beach you can check out the beefed-up muscle boys pumping iron. Take a picnic and a bottle of wine and you have yourself a ready-made muscle show.

Venice Boardwalk

If you fancy shopping, try Abbot Kinney Boulevard, one of L.A.’s coolest areas for shopping, or the Grove, which is a cross between Disneyland and Westfield, perfect for high street shopping. If you want to get your ‘Julia Roberts-in-Pretty Woman’ on (shopping in a swanky designer store, that is, not picking up tricks), then Rodeo Drive is the place to be. This is the Bond Street of L.A. and literally screams money. So dress rich, not hoochie, unless you want some snooty sales assistant looking down her schnozz at you!

Of course, L.A. is a Hollywood town so it would be foolish for any first-timer not to visit one of the many studios that offer a behind-the-scenes tour. We took a trip to the Warner Bros lot, which is home to legendary sets from classic films such as Gremlins and Batman Returns. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the cast of The Big Bang Theory walking to their studio.

Our disappointment at not seeing a living breathing screen legend was somewhat soothed by visiting the famous Central Perk set from Friends, where we had our picture taken on the very couch that Ross, Chandler, Phoebe, Monica, Rachel and Joey had previously perched their pert Hollywood butts! Oh the thrill of it.

And if Hollywood history is your bag, then check out the Dolby Theatre Tour – home of the Academy Awards, or take the Historic Hollywood Stars & Bars Urban Adventure Tour, on which visitors are transported back to the golden years of Hollywood by hanging out in old bars, speakeasies, cocktail lounges and mobster hangouts. A far cry from the cynical world of today, ruled by the likes of TMZ.

WHERE TO EAT

Like any city, L.A. is awash with great eateries. Gjelina is a great place for lunch, serving up a great mix of charcuterie and cheese boards, as well as perfect duck confit and pizza with house made chorizo.

For dinner, try the Barlo Kitchen inside the kooky Hotel Erwin on Venice Beach with its tasty tucker and yummy cocktails. A perfect place to have a bite before a stroll along the beach.

Our favourite eaterie was Perch, a French-inspired rooftop bistro that offers fabulous views of Downtown Los Angeles. Best enjoyed once the sun’s gone down, the cool evening breeze provides the perfect antidote to the intense heat of the daytime. With two outdoor fireplaces, various fire pits, a lounge and table seating both indoors and out, this is one of the coolest spots in town.

Gorgeoua French eatery, Perch

For those who want to experience real Hollywood and rub shoulders with the glitterati, the legendary gothic looking Chateau Marmont, overlooking Sunset Boulevard, is the place to be. Built in 1920 using blueprints based on a French castle in the Loire Valley, it’s referred to as the ‘castle on the hill’ and has been a hangout for the stars for many years. Dimly lit, the outside restaurant has a cool laid back vibe where industry honchos cut deals and schmooze young talents. During our visit, we spotted a gangly looking Robert Pattinson, trying desperately to blend into the background in an oversized t-shirt and baseball cap. Be warned, it’s not an easy place to get in to, but if you can, enjoy every single minute.

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