Attitude city guide: Tallinn, Estonia

Less than three hours from London, Estonia’s capital is a small hop for such a big experience.

Visit in mid-Summer, when the sky barely darkens – the country goes mad for barbecued pig of any kind, and the Old Town Square is filled with dizzy revelry, becoming almost trippily pretty . Or call on the city in deepest Midwinter, when Tallinn is wrapped in a snowy shrug, and you take refuge from the blizzard in one of its impossibly romantic and cosy basement bars, hewn out of some ancient Hanseatic shoemakers house. Tallinn is one of Europe’s most beguiling and romantic cities. Explore its medieval past – or take a wander through Soviet history – Estonia only regained its independence after decades of brutal Russian occupation, in 1991.

There’s a small gay scene, think Birmingham in 1989 – but nobody (yet) goes to Tallinn solely for its gay life. Estonians are generally a tolerant and Bohemian bunch anyway, so things could take off in future years. The Old Town is easily navigable by foot – making it a great long-weekend destination. If you want to stay longer, there is heaps of pastoral pleasure-making to be had in Estonia’s bucolic countryside stuffed with crumbly old manors of long-departed German and Russian nobles, bears (not that kind) wild mushrooms and cranberries.

The days of Soviet sludge are long-gone, and the Estonians are re-discovering their national cuisine – which is hearty, organic stuff which can make the soul sing on a snowy day. Cheese, organic vegetables and wild meats are particular highlights – a meal of elk meatballs cooked outside in the open air in a rich, tangy, sauce – after a long country walk, was a particular highlight.

Tallinn is no longer Europe’s best-kept secret, but it remains under-hyped, timeless and completely lovely. Go all year round for a real kick in the Baltics.

Where to eat:

Leib Ja Aed
Home-grown vegetables, wild mushrooms and wild meats are the stars of the show at this delightful, soulful restaurant in the heart of the Old Town. Try the beef fillet with broad bean and onion sauce.
leibresto.ee

Tchaikovsky Restaurant
Live it up like a Tsar at this gorgeous French/Russian restaurant in the Hotel Telegraaf. If you’re feeling flash there is more caviar than you shake a stick at here. If you’re feeling really flash, make a night of it and book a room in this gorgeous hotel with a turn of the (20^th) Century vibe.
telegraafhotel.com

Where to stay: Saint Petersbourg Hotel
Simple opulence is the order of the day at this gorgeous central pile, all stripped back wood and big soft, velvety throws and heavy curtains. It’s so snug you may not want to leave your room!

Vihula Manor Country Club and Spa
Listen to the sound of pins dropping at this Baronial country manor out in Estonia’s sleepy countryside. Grab yourself a massage and slowly let the rigours of modern life slip away.
vihulamanor.com

What to do: Ice fishing on Lake Peipus
Flip the bird to Putin, over on the other side on this, the biggest transboundary lake in Europe. In winter, it’s frozen solid for miles out. Drill a hole in the ice then thrown the fresh fillets of pike you pilfer into a gigantic pot of vegetable soup. Wash the whole thing down with 100 per cent proof local vodka – and then come over a bit Jayne Torville on the ice.
visitestonia.com

Where to go out: X-Baar (Tatari 1, Tallinn)
Divey in a good way, X-Baar is packed at the weekend and full of gay Estonian lovelies pashing on the dancefloor. Sweaty, unsophisticated fun.
visitestonia.com

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