Attitude Travel Guide: Maldives

Luxury retreats in the idyllic surrounds of the Indian Ocean’s white-sand-fringed islands.

More than a thousand tiny, custard-sand-fringed, palm-festooned paradise islands – The Maldives are not just a heavenly holiday destination, they are also surely one of the most incredible natural wonders of the world.

Popping out of coral reefs, Charles Darwin reckoned the Maldivian islands were formed around the tips of submerged volcanoes. Covering over 90,000 square kilometres, but 99 per cent ocean, the Maldives is one of the most scattered nations in the world. For most of their history, these hot and humid dots of life were largely ignored by the outside world. Situated to the east of India and Sri Lanka, south of Iran and west of Africa – they were briefly ruled by the British before returning to what would have been total obscurity had someone not had the bright idea of banishing the mozzies, digging a few swimming pools and turning one of the islands into a tourist haven.

Now tourism is the islands’ biggest industry, with scores of privately-owned island resorts – self-contained mini-universes, populated only by guests and staff and with no resident population beyond the hotel staff.

I sampled a two-centre stay at properties owned by the luxury beach House chain, Beach House Iruveli in the far north of the country and Iru Fushi, closer to the capital Male. At both, I was festooned with beds and baths bigger than my flat at home, a private pool and garden and my own perfect chunk of postcard-perfect, practically deserted sandy beach. Bliss. Both are impossibly lovely and luxurious – but if I was to characterise them I would say Iruveli is the more private and romantic, Iru Fushi the more fun and sociable. Iruveli is nestled amidst crystal clear water and 35 acres of lush greenery and white sand beaches. I reached it via international flight, internal flight and then an adrenalin-rush James Bond-esque speedboat ride through pitch-black waters. Paradise is a much over-used word in this world, but if such a thing exists, it is surely here. It is remarkable how quickly the rigours of am 12 hour flight melt away when whisked in a buggy to a heartbreakingly perfect moonlit bay and festooned with fresh tuna, lemon aioli, fresh asparagus and Prosecco.

Both islands have the much-desired water villas, luxury boltholes built out into the ocean floor with private hot tubs and swimming pools and partial glass floors where you can spot your supper swimming beneath. I preferred the beach villas on both – no less chi-chi but easier to pad in and out of the ocean across talcum sands. Iru Fushi was reached by a thrilling sea plane ride. It has a nightly cocktail party as well as beach sports, expert wine tastings and and eleven bars and restaurants including a lobster and champagne barbecue. My favourite spot on Iruveli where there are nine venues, was Kakuni Village where huge portions of traditional Maldivian spicy fried fish and pot roasted lamb with raisins, are dished out in a recreation of a traditional village. Both islands have world class spas with Iruveli offering targeted treatments for everything from insomnia to arthritis.

The Maldives is a deeply-traditional, 99 per cent Sunni Muslim society, so outside of these private islands, gay sex, as well as unmarried straight sex and alcohol are all strictly banned. Unless you choose to, you are unlikely to encounter any of this – these island mini-states-within-a-state, operate pretty much under their own steam. The booze flows freely and these multi-million-pound shangri-las are keen to attract the gay market, particularly the gay honeymoon market. There is not the often-intrinsic hostility to gay people here that can be found in many parts of the Caribbean. People are pretty much totally oblivious to gay life. There is no gay community to speak of in the Maldives, because there is barely any community at all due to the geography of this strange but utterly compelling place.

And it’s the geography of the place that makes the Maldives so attractive to honeymooners or stressed out city dwellers. There’s nothing to DO here. No sightseeing to be seen. No Eiffel Towers or Gaudi cathedrals. The thing you come here to see, is the view over the powder sands to the ocean, flecked pink by the sunset, from your private stretch of beach. Sure you can take a boat trip, watch fishermen in action, take a peek at traditional Maldivian life if that’s what you want – but most come here, to sip champagne in their private pool, on a balmy night under countless stars after feasting on fresh barbecued lobster. Days are spent busily bobbing in and out of the ocean and mentally wrangling over whether to have your fresh fish Indian, Chinese or Italian style tonight. It’s good to see the world but sometimes it really doesn’t get better than a beach and a book with more than a few deluxe extras.

7nts at the 5* Iru Fushi Beach & Spa Resort staying on a bed & breakfast basis costs from £1,399 including flights with Oman Air from London Heathrow (via Muscat) and sea plane transfers. Book by 30 April for travel between 01 May and 30 June 2014 and receive a free upgrade from Beach Villa Room to Deluxe Beach Villa Room. To book call 0845 543 6615 or visit travelbag.co.uk

7nts at the 5* The Beach House at Iruveli staying on a bed & breakfast basis costs from £1,759 including flights with Oman Air from London Heathrow (via Muscat), domestic flights and sea plane transfers. Book by 30 April for travel between 01 May and 30 June 2014 and receive a free upgrade from Beach Villa to Beach Suite. To book call 0845 543 6615 or visit travelbag.co.uk

GETA (Gay European Tourism Association) recommends that gay travellers check the legal position of all countries they are planning to visit. Visit the IGLA Rainbow Europe Guide at ilga-europe.org or visit the Foreign Office & Commonwealth website fco.gov.uk before you make any travel plans.

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