Atzaro review: the hidden jewel of serenity at the heart of Ibiza

A bird tweets, perched upon the branch of one of the dozens of orange trees that surround us, its fruit adding joyous spots of colour to the acres of land that is Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel. The scene works in symphony with a luminous blue sky and the rich green leaves of the plants and trees that extend for miles in all directions. We sink into one of the large round sun loungers by the elegant, long pool, the beds big enough for both my partner and me to splay ourselves across, cocktail in hand. Our drink of choice? A ‘Si-Güey’ – that’s tequila, chile liqueur, cucumber and lime, in case you wondered.

Ibiza has been a regular destination for me since I discovered the wild side of it in my more hedonistic early twenties. After the ‘pandemic pause’ of 2020 shifted my priorities into a slower gear, I began to explore the pleasure that comes from embracing a more tranquil life. Since then, my visits to Ibiza have adjusted somewhat. I’m still one to dip my toe into the nightlife – I truly don’t know if that will ever leave my bones – but recent visits have leaned into the island’s more holistic pleasures.

I’m on the White Isle for a week this visit, catching the late season sun, beginning our stay with a couple days at Atzaró. A hidden oasis in the north of Ibiza, the original Masseria that was once home to the family who still own and run the hotel, is now the reception where guests are welcomed. The traditional white facade is adorned with radiant purple bougainvillaea, with guest rooms dotted around the sprawling building.

Across from the reception, is a collection of more recent rooms and suites, that while newer in build still lean into the sturdy woodwork finish and clean white walls of the original building. Ponds and moats that are home to numerous frogs and fish wrap around the accommodations, adding to the stillness that has made Atzaró famous. (The family’s link to the land can be traced back to the 1200s during which the Moors occupied the region.)

Garden of delights

After lunch, we decide to stretch our legs and wander across to the vegetable garden that supplies the ingredients for the spectacularly crisp and fresh salad I’ve just devoured. Passing through the orange trees, the hotel grounds open to a maze of curated gardens with rows of aubergines, tomatoes, chard and more. It’s from here that the hotel and its sister restaurant Aubergine serve its daily fresh menu. In fact, if you’ve eaten an orange in Ibiza, chances are they have come from Atzaró. We meander through the bougainvillaea that wends its way overhead and discover corners that are home to aged olive trees.

The serenity creates a balance that for many is not immediately associated with the island. Apart from the obvious luxury, here is Atzaró’s real treasure. It places at its heart the nourishment of the body alongside that of the mind and soul, weaving that magic into its identity through the bricks, plants, flowers and animals that call it home. A stay at Atzaró is not just about the exquisite service or comfortable beds. It’s the unique way it doesn’t just serve you a relaxing stay, but invites you in to get cosy.

So tempting is its charm, it’s hard to remove ourselves from its embrace. We spend the day by the pool, under the dappled shade of overhead orange trees, basking in the sun, before we realise that maybe, perhaps, we should venture out to explore the island. It would normally take us days to unwind from London’s hectic pace – here it happens within hours of unzipping our luggage.

I close my first afternoon with a visit to the spa. The ‘Atzaró Integration Massage’ takes place in a large, airy room with tall ceilings. It occurs to me how spa treatments usually take place in tight and tiny darkened rooms with no natural light. Here, floor to ceiling white curtains allow light in, but offer the privacy such experiences need. The sense of space above and around me immediately facilitates the process of relaxing into the treatment. Incense is lit and a facemask placed over my eyes, before the expert hands of my therapist and the fragrant oils on her palms help move me into a total state of ease.

Farm to fork, from poolside to beach

That night, we visit Aubergine, the farm to fork restaurant from the Atzaró family, located a short 15-minute drive from the hotel. I dine on a starter of roasted aubergine carpaccio, tomatoes, dates, pistachio, feta with rocket pesto, sprinkled with crunchy, sweet pink pomegranate seeds that sparkle across the plate like gemstones. In the thrall of the abundant Aubergine gardens, I decide to go veggie for the experience and tuck into the Millet burger with beetroot, sweet potato, leek and paprika for a main, and a hearty serving of sweet potato fries on the side. My partner opts for the locally sourced lamb chops and baby potatoes served with perfectly crisp padron peppers. It’s all utterly delicious!

We spend the next day lounging at Atzaró Beach, located on the north-east coast in Cala Nova. The large double beds perched on the top of the right side of the small bay are the perfect spot to people watch as beach goers make the most of the more chill side to Ibiza beachlife. When we get peckish, we nibble on Andalusian-style baby squid along with Queen Scallops drizzled with mango and citrus fruit dressing from the restaurant. Post lunch, we perk ourselves up with an Espresso martini… made with tequila, not vodka, of course. (Try it, you might like it!) Then, after a dip into the warm sparkling sea, we snooze away the rest of our afternoon in the sun’s glow.

Dinner that night is on the La Veranda restaurant back at Atzaró, where the quality continues as we satisfy our hunger with grilled octopus served alongside black rice and smoked paprika aioli. After dinner, we return to our commodious room, with its grand four poster bed and private terrace, complete with outdoor bath. There’s a chilled bottle of cava waiting, which we pop open and enjoy as the sky goes from orange to purple to black. There’s no moon tonight, so the stars speckle the night sky overhead as bats flitter about. We lay down on the terrace’s outdoor bed, spot constellations and natter away ’til late. Tonight, we sleep well.

It might have been a brief stay, but it’s enough to switch us off from hectic London life, and re-tune back into ourselves. Atzaró is not just any hotel, it’s a hug for the soul. 

Atzaró is now open for the 2025 season. For more information, visit www.atzaro.com.