Ca’ di Dio Venice review: Understated opulence with exemplary service
"It's easy to see why they named this hotel 'House of God' - it's certainly fit for one," Attitude's Dale Fox says
By Dale Fox
Cliched as it is at this point, it’s hard not to picture yourself as Tanya McQuoid – or James Bond – as you glide into Venice on your own private speedboat from Marco Polo Airport straight to the door of your hotel.
The hotel in question is boutique Ca’ di Dio Venice, a striking piece of architectural history which dates back to the 13th century. As my group and I gently cruise the last leg of our journey along Venice’s ancient canals under the heat of the late-summer sun, we pass under a bridge grouped with waving tourists. Finally, the hotel’s be-suited, smiling staff assists us onto a private dock attached to the property.
“The understated opulence immediately hits you”
Entering the air-conditioned sanctuary of the Ca’ di Dio, the understated opulence immediately hits you as gently as the welcoming cool breeze. This is a hotel that doesn’t boast about its luxury – but that’s not to say that luxury isn’t still prevalent. Marble statues grace the walls under an extravagant crystal chandelier in the lobby, while a wood-panelled library lies just next door. It’s easy to see why they named this hotel ‘House of God’ – it’s certainly fit for one.
After an efficient check-in and making my way up to the third floor to my room, I have a ‘Carrie Bradshaw in Paris’ moment when I see the view from the window and squeal. There’s no Eiffel Tower, of course – that squeal is made for the breathtaking view over the Venetian Lagoon, with the city’s ancient skyline providing the most stunning backdrop to the azure, sparkling waters.
Decor blends ancient and modern
The room itself complements the hotel’s overall theme, blending the ancient and the modern. Cool, sloped white ceilings with wooden beams adhere to the typical Mediterranean architectural style. Meanwhile, the super-king bed, adorned with inviting white linen and cloud-like pillows, is perfectly positioned in the centre of the room. The spacious wardrobes, complete with full-length mirrors, could easily accommodate a week’s worth of outfits. In the bathroom, the cavernous shower provides a sanctuary all its own amid a space of earth-toned marble.
I notice that I’ve forgotten to bring a European plug convertor with me. Not one minute after calling the front desk is one brought to my room by a smiling member of the concierge team. This was the benchmark of the immaculate service to come.
Becoming Venetian tour
After changing, I meet my group in the open courtyard bar. After taking a quick Select spritz to get the afternoon started – never ask for Aperol in Venice unless you want to be scowled at, we’re told – we step off the dock into another private speedboat. We head out for Ca’ di Dio’s own Becoming Venetian tour, complete with personal guide and dashing skipper.
Our guide offers regional prosecco right away, poured into exquisite locally-made hand-blown Murano glasses. “We can’t drink the tap water here, so everyone drinks prosecco,” she explains with a laugh. I love her immediately. With drink in hand, we peacefully float through the canals, with our guide recounting the history of practically every building we pass. The purpose of the tour is to unveil parts of Venice that only locals would know, and she certainly succeeds.
With the prosecco doing its job nicely, we glide along the waters in hushed awe, taking in the city’s majesty as dusk approaches. We return to Ca’ di Dio just in time to witness the sun setting over the lagoon, marvelling at the otherworldly Italian skies. It’s the perfect conclusion to an idyllic afternoon.
Dinner at Ca’ di Dio’s Vero restaurant
Heading straight to dinner at Ca’ di Dio’s Vero restaurant, our group is seated at an outdoor table in front of the hotel. We enjoy the sounds of the water as we relax in the candlelit seating area, though our waiter appears almost immediately to take our order. Everyone opts for a tasting menu of local dishes, which are as visually appealing as they are delicious.
White wine is also served – local, of course. Our waiter remains attentive throughout the meal, not letting a water – or wine – glass remain unfilled. We all head to our rooms wishing life could be like this every day.
“I wake up torn between not wanting to leave the comfortable bed and eagerly wanting to try out the breakfast”
The following morning, I wake up torn between not wanting to leave the comfortable bed and eagerly wanting to try out the breakfast. Food always prevails, so I head down to the restaurant just off the courtyard bar, choosing to dine al fresco in the warm morning sun.
A variety of fresh pastries, fruits, juices, and cereals await at the buffet, along with bacon, eggs, and the usual breakfast treats. I make my selection and take a seat, and a waiter promptly comes to take my coffee order. She also mentions that I can order fresh eggs if I prefer, although the ones I’ve chosen from the buffet are more than satisfying. I’m impressed that the same lovely waiter remembers my coffee order the following morning too.
Ca’ di Dio Botanical Experience
Satisfied, we set out for another boat trip. Yes, this is our third one, but who can tire of private boat trips? Today’s excursion is even more special, as we embark on the Ca’ di Dio Botanical Experience. Our new skipper (another dashing one – it seems to be a requirement) and guide take us to the enchanting island of Burano, renowned for its colourful buildings. The journey there is more spirited, as we hit the open lagoon at breakneck speeds.
After enjoying the sights from our boat, we go ashore to meet the botanist Gabriele Bisetto for a coffee, before he joins us for the second part of the trip. Gabriele is a true local with an inexplicable knowledge and love for Venice and its flora and fauna. Meeting him is the highlight of our trip.
“Gabriele spots some wild herbs, which he picks and shares with us”
As we venture deeper into the lagoon, the skipper cuts the engine as we float along the shore. Gabriele spots some wild herbs, which he picks and shares with us, explaining their identity and health benefits and encouraging us to taste them. We collect bags of such flora along the way, which will be used in our dinner later that evening back at Vero. Gabriele also creates his own gin from the local botanicals, which is served in Ca’ di Dio’s Alchemia Bar during certain times of the year – though not when we visit, sadly.
We’re taken to visit the grounds of a sprawling holiday villa, which is currently empty as the owner isn’t in residence. The garden contains Roman ruins, a vineyard, and pomegranate trees. There’s even a wooden cross from one of Christopher Columbus’s ships hanging on a wall inside the house, Gabriele tells us.
Returning to Ca’ di Dio in the evening, our chef combines the day’s bounty into each dish. It’s a magical experience to look down at your plate and see the results of your labour – well, Gabriele’s. Another satisfying tasting menu is served, before the group retires for the evening.
Discovering queer artisan Allessandro Merlin
On our final day, we explore the winding alleyways and canals of the Arsenale neighbourhood surrounding the hotel. We stumble upon the workshop of queer ceramicist Allessandro Merlin at 3876 Castello, who crafts handmade tableware from a single kiln and sells it from a store out front.
His walls are adorned with queer erotica, polaroids, newspaper clippings, and postcards. “My inspiration,” he tells me. It’s genuinely a magnificent discovery and well worth a visit – even if it’s just for the chat with Allessandro.
“How do we get to the airport? In a private speedboat, of course”
Later in the day, it’s time to head back home. How do we get to the airport? In a private speedboat, of course. We depart at sunset, marking the perfect conclusion to the most sublime experience. We truly lived our Jennifer Coolidge fantasy at Ca’ di Dio – and hope to return very soon to do the same again.
Ca’ di Dio Venice offers double rooms from €460 per night, based on two people sharing on a B&B basis. To book, click here.