London Collections: Men, powered by Renault (Day 1)
LC:M is fluid, constantly evolving, growing and changing in shape and right from show number one we were set for a change of pace. Topman Design kicked off proceedings, moving from their usual venue from Holborn over to the high ceilinged lower chamber of Westminster University. Our fashion-mobile of choice, the Renault Kadjar, glided along to Attitude HQ in a shiny cherry hue, to transport us to the new venue for the maiden show of the season.
Our fashion team are ready for #LCM2016 in our @renault_uk #KADJAR Look out for the bright red car! pic.twitter.com/tJghUBSGnE
— Attitude Magazine (@AttitudeMag) January 8, 2016
Topman Design always draw in the celeb crowd. Joining Attitude on the front row of the show, were not one, but four of our former cover stars, David Gandy, Dougie Poynter and Nick Jonas and Oliver Cheshire (as well as actor Douglas Booth) On the runway there was a riot of all things 90’s and 00’s going on, from oversized bleached out denim, extra long wallet chains, to long lanky hair. Slouchy knit beanies, bleached denim, rips, unbuttoned cuffs and plenty of wear and tear were all present in this nostalgic trip down the runway.
There were also a lighter touch to all the fantastically frayed edges with plenty of velvet, whether it was crushed, gold foil printed, or distressed. Silk satin and more fluid pieces and beautiful floral prints were a great touch to the collection and layered in perfectly with the rest of the collection pieces. Luxury loungewear was definitely on the agenda for Topman Design, with pyjama pants, matching silk shirts and trousers along with dressing gown-esque outerwear. Everything was coming one size up, in plenty a plush fabric as well as some fantastic chunk knit cuffs and hems, We’re ready for the opulent warmth of Topman AW16.
Next up we hurtled past the red buses and black cabs in our Renault fashion-mobile to the more familiar Victoria House that houses menswear exhibitions for the duration of LC:M, where GQ’s Dylan Jones introduced some of this season’s ambassadors Tinie Tempah, David Gandy and Hu Ling, and officially starting LC:M proceeding, finishing his speech ending with an emphatic ‘Welcome to the greatest fashion capital of the world.’
Things took a darker turn, but all for the good, at Nasir Mazhar. Masher who kept with his signature, exploring the multiple shades of black, choosing to focus on shapes and textures. As well as his usual muscled models, exposing brawny flesh, with monochrome pieces accentuating their athletic curves, there was also more androgynous members of the gang, still showing off as much skin, wearing cut out pieces, and monochrome.
Back at the the Topman Show Space, the Topman Fashion East MAN show for a trio of fledgling designers on the verge of leaving the nest. Wales Bonner was the first of the trinity to show entitled ‘Spirituals’ a mediation on black spirituality’ that transcends though both space and time ‘exploring the representation of black male sexuality and identity.’ Synched waists, silhouettes that curved, floaty silks an Swaorskvi crystal embroidery came down the runway in burnt oranges and earthy colours.
Rory Parnell Mooney brought out the velvet from this season’s staple fabric draw with a show that used ‘ordered luxury’ with anarchy. The designer described his collection as an ‘angry teenager in a Catholic School.’ Once again we were treated to a great dichotomy of both the hard and the soft. Fluid silky layers, were met with oversized hoodies and provocative sloganed pieces.
To close, Charles Jeffrey brought the party to the runway, which a collection named after his own club night, ‘Loverboy’. The Scottish designer took his love of tailoring to the fun side, with the show notes exclaiming this season’s signature was ‘drunk tailoring’ Jeffrey made good on his promise of twisting the classics in a brilliant display of off kilter New Romanticism. Aided by a set designed by Gary Card the whole show displayed some great cropped high waists, broader shoulders and a collection that had been expertly scrunched up and tweaked to the finest nuance, with plenty of big hair and big make up.
1205 gave us a lesson in the art of seeming simplicity, focusing on fabrics that are not what they first seem. For all Paula Gerbase‘s hidden detailing, a resounding thought from the fashion crowd was ‘I would like to wear that’, and while clever details are commended, it’s this commercial nerve that Gerbase will have been hoping to hit.
Craig Green, one of the gems in the London’s menswear crown continued down the course of utility and the uniform. There was plenty of protection on offer in this collection (a key element to any uniform) with hoods zipped up tight around the face, multiple belts and longer layers to protect the skin that came in an array of earthy tonal colours. To contrast the hard industry, there were billowing wide-leg trouser. Belted waists and lighter fabrics soften the industrial sihouette as well as deconstruction which exposed skin from the otherwise heavily-protected models walking down the runway.
Day one of LC:M had a lot to showcase: Clothes that are not confined to gender are definitely being explored by a lot of the designers (Bonner’s last menswear collection ended up being bought by both mens and womenswear stores) with plenty of fluidity. The 90’s is having a rebellious mood swing on the catwalk with plenty of oversizing, fraying and distressed fabrics. There is also a softer side to menswear this season too more fluid fabrics such as silk and opulent velvets to take the edge off the abrasion. We’ll be looking out for more velvet on day two.
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